History

The Silver Appleyard duck bred by the famous Reginald Appleyard is famous not only for its egg laying ability but also for its beauty. But until 1980 it did not have a miniature equivalent. Well known waterfowl breeder, Tom Bartlett changed all that by developing this breed in 1980 and it weights one third of the original breed. The miniature is not to be confused with the Silver Bantam which was developed by Reginald Appleyard. The two breeds have been standardised separately. The Silver Appleyard Miniature was taken up with some enthusiasm by breeders and exhibitors for its sheer beauty and it shines on an exhibition bench. It's also popular abroad.

Appearance

It is bred to a precise standard.

The drake has a black green head with a silver white flecked throat which has a silver ring around it.

Under the neck it is claret to silver under the body and laced claret along the back.

The rump is solid black green and the wings have blue tips. Whilst different, the duck is lovely with her silver white head and neck and creamy white underbody and she also sports blue tipped wings.

They must be compact of body and weight for Drakes is 1.4 Kg, Ducks 1.1 Kg . A handsome couple indeed.

They are in the bantam duck classification but strictly speaking a miniature is a duck that has a larger counterpart while a bantam has no large counterpart.

Silver Appleyard Breed Standard

1. Head

The Drake should have a well rounded head with a slightly raised brow, iridescent green (over brown black feathers) where as the Duck should have a head with dark brown markings over her brow and crown.

2. Carriage

slightly erect, alert and busy, the drake is more upright than the duck.

3. Neck

Medium length, not too thin and only slightly curved, becoming thicker at the base and joining smoothly at the body.

the should also look iridescent green (over brown black feathers) which stops above the shoulder with a complete silver white ring and the duck will have distinct line between fawnish buff and the light brown streaked cream body.

4. Breast

Will be rich red brown with silver white lacing which finishes in a line from the wing fronts for the male and the female will be a creamy white.

5. Body

An elegant bird with a longish almost rectangular body, but no keel.

males are all underneath is silvery white to cream where as the females are light brown streaked cream.

6. Back

The Drake is brown grey feathers on the back are each laced with white with the female having light brown streaked cream.

7. Rump

the females rump is also light brown streaked cream with the male being brown black with a slight iridescence, laced with white.

8. Tail

The Drake's tail is slightly elevated; brownish black bordered with white and the Duck's tail is slightly elevated; fawn, edged with cream.

9. Wings

Their wings should be silvery white; dark grey iridescence overlay with the male having violet green iridescence to the wing flashes; 
coverts tipped with white and black and the female having darker black feathers at the end of the wings.

10. Legs, Feet and Webs

Legs are set a little back and well apart, ducks legs should be as dark grey as possible where as the Drakes should be orange and a little longer than ducks.

11. Bill and Eyes

Bill should be medium length, rising in a gentle curve to the brow but not wedge shaped. males bill colour is yellowish green with a black bean at the tip and females is dark grey, almost black.

eye of both sexes are dark brown in colour.

Temperament

As well as being good looking it is also a hardy and lively breed and a good layer. Although obviously a small carcase, as a table bird it is meaty and compact so it is useful for back yard or smallholding purposes. It's a good garden bird (though it will still eat young plants!) and likes to forage on slugs and snails. They are determined sitters and on average lay roughly 160 white-shelled eggs yearly, they love to raise a family so if its eggs you want, you'll need to be strict about collecting every day. It's an easy breeder of strong ducklings. Keep a breeding trio for best results.

This breed has a calm temperament and tends to stay close to home if well-fed.

Housing and space

Ducks need to be kept in a secure pen or house when you are not at home that will protect them from predators. To be secure, housing needs to have solid sheeting or welded mesh (with wire at least 1.2mm thick) on the roof, floor and walls. Provide as much space as possible for each duck. At a minimum provide at least 1.5 sq metres area per duck in their house or pen if they are to be confined in it during the day. For a night house provide at a minimum, at least 0.5 sq metres per duck.

Duck housing should be out of the sun and should provide wind protection. Ducks don’t really like to be in direct sun. Metal housing in particular should be insulated or shaded to avoid it becoming dangerously hot inside (ducks can die from heat stress so precautions must be taken). Housing must also be well-ventilated. A simple three-sided shelter with a mesh base, front and door is suitable. The open side should face North, to get the Winter sun and avoid cold, wet Southerly winds.

The duck house or pen should be easy to clean as ducks poo a lot. Rice hulls are an excellent pen surface for ducks as they are soft but last a long time and also drain very well. Rake the rice hulls over each day. Do not use bare concrete or pavers over more than one third of the pen floor or your ducks will likely develop sores on their soft feet.

Inside the house, provide a ‘private’ spot for a nest (a sturdy cardboard box on its side, or an old lawnmower catcher will do). Keep the nest topped up with clean mulch, wood shavings or straw. Ducks often bury their eggs in the nest. Ducks don’t generally need a perch - they will sleep on the floor.

Keep their food container inside the duck house under cover so it doesn’t get wet. Keep the water and food at least a metre apart to discourage them from dribbling water in their food. Ideally, put the water over an area that drains well. Sitting the water container over a drainage pit or platform wider than the water container and filled with smooth pebbles is ideal.

Ducks love to forage around a garden. They search in mulch and under plants for tasty grubs and worms. Ducks like to eat grass, so they will enjoy grazing on lawn and keeping the weeds down. You will need to fence them out of your vegetable garden or they may eat it all! Ducks do not dig (unlike chickens) but they will make little holes in soft or wet earth with their bills, ‘drilling’ for worms. Let the ducks in when you are digging in your veggie garden– they will have a wonderful time finding earthworms and other treats.

Water

Ducks love water and use about 1 litre of drinking water per duck per day. They need water to keep their eyes, bills, feet and feathers in good condition. The water should be deep enough for them to stick their whole head into and to wash their body. The water container needs to have a shallow edge so that the ducks can get out again easily if they happen to climb in. They love pools where they can climb in and splash. A kids pool (clam shell) or a tub about 20cm deep is perfect. Supervise access to swimming water until you are sure that the ducks can get in and out of the pool easily. Old baths are not ideal because they are slippery inside and ducks can find it hard to get out. Although ducks are usually great swimmers, they can still become waterlogged and drown.

Health care

Ducks kept in a clean environment and fed good food are generally very robust and hardy animals. Ducks rarely suffer from intestinal worms or mites (especially if they have regular swimming sessions) but they usually need to be wormed every 6 months with a poultry wormer. Talk to your veterinarian for advice about worming.

Ducks can be a bit clumsy and prone to tripping over things, and are easily injured. Ducks kept on a rough or hard surface can develop foot ‘ulcers’. Swellings, sores on their feet or limping need attention from a vet.

Never give mouldy food to ducks – mould spores can cause respiratory diseases or sudden toxic reactions in ducks.

Keep their water clean – change drinking water every day. But don’t worry that they turn their new, clean water brown within minutes – that’s normal!

Food

Ducklings and ducks need to eat a commercially prepared food as their main diet.

Up to 3 weeks of age ducks need a high nutrient feed with a protein level of approximately 18-20%. Duck starter crumbles are ideal however chick starter can be used.

After 3 weeks and up to 20 weeks of age they can be fed a good quality grower food suitable for ducks or for pullets (young chickens). Aim for a food that has a protein level of about 15%. You can also use a ‘maintenance’ food that is designed for birds that are not currently laying

After 20 weeks of age they can be fed a good quality layer or breeder food suitable for adult ducks or chickens. Do not feed them mash (feed ground in the form of a powder) as they can choke on it. Pellets or mixed grain are best.

After 20 weeks of age ducks also need daily access to shell grit as a source of calcium to ensure strong shelled eggs. This can be given in a separate dish.

At all ages ducks will enjoy being fed thawed frozen peas, leafy greens, or zucchini (including zucchini leaves). Try them out and see what they like! Leafy greens are very good for them. Little ducklings enjoy their greens finely chopped in a shallow dish of water. Some ducks also love watermelon.

Ducks scoop up their food so feed them in a dish or container that allows them to scoop

You can make food available at all times so they don’t go hungry. They will eat what they need.

Safe Foods For Your Duck

Fruit and Vegetable

Barley

Cabbage (chopped up)

Cracked corn

Grapes (cut in half)

Green Peas

Kale (chopped up)

Lettuce (chopped up)

Oats (uncooked rolled)

Rice (cooked or uncooked)

Watermelon

Wheat

Zucchini (and leaves)

Unsafe Foods For Your Duck

Avocado

Bread

Chocolate

Citrus fruit

Garlic

Popcorn

Onion

Although bread is commonly given to ducks, excessive amounts are not good for them. Ensure any bread or bread products are only ever given as an occasional treat. 

Please also note that feeding ducks is not the same as feeding chickens.

If you notice any changes in your ducks' eating behaviour please consult with your veterinaria