History

Dwarf lops and Mini lops are relatively new rabbit breeds and have only been available in Australia since 1998. The Dwarf lops and Mini lops in Australia today have been bred from rabbits which originated in America and England and arrived via breeders in New Zealand. They have been developed from the Lop which is one of the oldest rabbit varieties. The term “Lop” stems from the characteristic ears of this rabbit which are extremely long and wide and hang either side of the head, touching the ground.

The Dwarf lop was the first of the two varieties to be developed. This was achieved by introducing the dwarf gene to the French Lop rabbit. The Dwarf lops were then further dwarfed to produce the Mini lop.

Appearance

The Mini lop has a maximum weight of 1.6 kg. Both varieties have a dense and soft coat and drooping ears. (Lops are born with upright ears which soften and droop as they age). There are over 40 different colours and patterns in the mini lop worldwide, however not all of these are available in Australia.

Mini Lop Breed Standard

1. Type

Bold thickset and firm. The body should be short, broad and well muscled with little visible neck. The well-muscled rump is short and well rounded. The chest is broad and deep with curved sides where it meets the shoulders, which are broad and strong. The front legs are thick, short and straight. The hind legs are short, strong, powerful and carried parallel to the body. The tail is straight, strong and well furred. A small dewlap is permissible but not desirable.

2. Adult Weight

Ideal -1.5kg Maximum -1.6kg

Maximum weight for under 5 months exhibits to be 1.360kg

3. Coat

The coat to be dense and of good length, rollback with an abundance of guard hairs. Legs and pads to be well furred.

4. Head, Crown and Eyes

The head is bold, broad and well developed. The profile of the head is strongly curved with a good width between the eyes, full cheeks and a broad muzzle. The eyes are bold, bright and large. The basal ridge of the ears should appear prominent across the top of the skull to form the crown.

5. Ears

Should be broad, thick, well furred and rounded at the ends. They should be carried close to the cheeks giving a horseshoe like outline when viewed from the front. The inside of the ears should not be visible from any angle when carried correctly.

6. Colours

Chocolate Tortoiseshell – An even shade of Orange top colour to carry well down and shading off to a lighter colour to the skin. Ears, belly and underside of tail – light chocolate brown. Cheeks and hindquarters (flanks) shaded or toned with light chocolate brown. Eyes brown. Any other colour or pattern accepted by the Breeds Standard Committee of the British Rabbit Council apart from the broken pattern.

7. Condition

The exhibit should be in a perfect state of health and bodily condition, free from all soiling, particularly on the feet, ears and genital parts. The coat should reflect the overall good health of the exhibit, which should appear alert and vigorous.

FAULTS

Body too long; head not sufficiently characteristic of the breed; pimpled or damaged ears; poor ear carriage; ears folded; crown not developed; fly back coat; large dewlaps in does; rear feet not parallel to the body; light soiling of feet, ears and genital organs; bare pads; fur slightly soiled or matted; long toenails; lack of vitality.

DISQUALIFICATIONS

Maloccluded or mutilated teeth; over weight limit; deformities and mutilations; deformation of the teeth; feet bowed or bent; white toe nails in coloured exhibits; white nose on butterfly pattern; crooked tail; any discernible illness or disease; blindness or partial blindness; incorrect eye colour; any parasitic infection; much soiling; matted coat; sore pads (where skin is broken or scabbed); any evidence of irregular preparation for exhibition including trimming and dyeing.

Temperament

Mini Lop rabbits have a very playful yet laid back temperament making them an ideal pet. However, Mini Lops require proper care and attention as they love to show off and be noticed. If you are not able to provide your rabbit with the attention and care it requires then you shouldn’t get one. Mini Lops have a tendency to act out if they are not cared for properly, they do this by kicking their feet or nipping and biting. Mini Lops love to get petted and played with and like all rabbits, are very curios and can get into mischief when left without supervision.

The Mini Lop were developed with the intention of creating a rabbit which was easy to handle and hardy enough to withstand handling and cuddling from children. However it is also very important that children learn how to handle rabbits correctly to ensure a happy and long life for your Mini Lop.

Most rabbits get along fine with other pets, such as guinea pigs and cats, if introduced properly, Mini lop are no different.

Handling

Never lift a rabbit by the ears or by the scruff of its neck, this can harm your rabbit.

 Instead the best way to handle your Mini Lop is to place one hand under its front legs and the other hand under the bottom and lift holding it firmly, making sure you supporting its body so it feels safe and secure. It is very important to handle your rabbit correctly, as rabbits have very powerful back legs and are able to break their own backs when kicking or struggling. A rabbit held firmly the rabbit should feel secure and not wriggle. Never allow children to grab the rabbit, run with it or rough it up. It is important to teach children to handle rabbits correctly to ensure your new rabbit is happy and safe.

It is important to handle your rabbit every day, or as frequently as possible. By daily handling you are able to ensure that your Mini Lop remains gentle and placid. It is important to give your rabbit plenty of attention Mini Lops like people have different moods and temperaments, if you sit on the floor and your Mini Lop hops onto your lap that is a good indicator that they are in the mood for company.

Exercise

All rabbits should have an area in which to exercise outside their hutch. They love coming into the house for a play and being easily litter trained makes them ideal for both an indoor and outdoor pet. The lop is not a very active rabbit and does not require a great deal of exercise but care must be taken that it is not overfed. Exercise will also assist rabbits to wear down their nails and to maintain body tone. They ideally need 1 hour outside of their hutch per day to exercise their legs. Although sometimes this is not possible due to work commitments and weather. Mini Lops love to play and are quite happy to throw around a used toilet roll in their cage or cardboard box.

Housing and space

Most rabbits in Australia are kept outdoors in movable hutches made of timber or metal. These should be enclosed with mesh, and preferably with a form of insect screen to prevent mosquitoes spreading disease. One end needs to be enclosed to provide shelter for the rabbit and a hinged lid  will help when cleaning the hutch each week. When selecting your rabbit hutch for your Mini Lop, it is important to consider what sort of materials your enclosure is made from. Some types of wood may be harmful if chewed by your rabbit and some may be prone to rot or break down quicker than others. If selecting an enclosure made from metal it is important to consider heat and sunlight on hot days, as you do not want your rabbit to cook in a hot metal box.  With this in mind hutches should be located in sheltered area of the yard in warmer months. Its also best to pick one without a wire floor, as this can cause discomfort for your rabbits paws and even cause sores.

Mini Lops like all rabbits need plenty of room to move about and exercise as well as somewhere dry, enclosed and protected from the elements to sleep. As a general guide, the cage for your rabbit should be at least four times size of the rabbit. Just like most things bigger is better. If your Mini Lop will spend most of its time in its cage then the largest cage possible is best for it.

It is very important that the hutches are secure against attack from cats, dogs or foxes.

Bedding/Litter

Bedding should be provided for your rabbit to sleep and live in; straw and hay are ideal and should be replaced on a regular basis, no fewer than once a week. It is also very important to keep your rabbits hutch clean to ensure you rabbit is happy and protected from harmful insect and parasite infestations. In solid floored cages grass mats make the best support as they provide good traction and comfort for your rabbit, carpet or towels also provide good bedding, as long as your rabbit is not chewing and eating the fabric.

Avoid using cedar and pine shavings and if wood shavings are used at all hardwood shavings such as aspen are best, I myself use Breeders Choice wood shaving which can be brought at most stock feed or pet shops.

House pet potential

Breeders say rabbits can be toilet trained to use litter trays but avoid using clay-type litters as these can cause digestion problems if nibbled. The biggest problem caused by rabbits roaming free inside the house is biting through electrical cords so homes should be bunny-proofed before release.

Grooming

Mini Lops don’t need much grooming, just a brush though the coat once a week. As they grow, they will gradually lose their baby fur and acquire an adult coat. It may be necessary to groom them with a wire brush to remove patches of fur when they moult. It is important to remove moulting hair as Mini Lops can die if ingest too much hair.

Health and Lifespan

The Most common health and lifespan problems which affect Mini lops and Dwarf Lops are caused by incorrect Diet.

It is very  important to keep your rabbit hutch clean as this will keep parasites and other insects away which may infect your rabbit.

Mites/Ear Mites

Ear Mites can be common in Lops particularly as their long ears can collect dust when kept indoors. If you see your rabbit scratching its ear with its back foot than this may be an indicator that your rabbit has mites. Mites may cause baldness and sever infestations of mites can lead to infections which can kill your rabbit. You can treat your rabbit for mites with a drug called Ivermectin, which is sold under different names depending on your area.

Fleas

To protect your rabbit from fleas you can use a flea treatment for cats which can be used every four weeks but avoid Frontline flea treatment as it has been known to harm rabbits. It is best to use brands such as Advantage or ask your local vet it is good idea to regularly disinfect your rabbit hutch when cleaning to avoid flea infections from occurring.

Myxomatosis

Mosquitoes and rabbit fleas can also cause problems as they can carry Myxomatosis, which is a fatal disease for all rabbits which cannot be vaccinated against in Australia. To protect your rabbits it is important to screen hutches to protect against insects and use flea powder if your rabbit is exposed to wild rabbits. Myxomatosis effects rabbits by causing their lungs to fill with fluid and eventually drowns the rabbit.

It is also to use a hanging water bottle rather than a water bowl as this can avoid water contaminates from your rabbit defecating in their water bowl or insects laying eggs in the water bowl which when swallowed can be harmful to your Mini Lop.

Calicivirus

Calicivirus is another rabbit disease which was introduced into Australia to control wild rabbit populations. Calicivirus causes a rabbit’s organs to bleed and then eventually bleeds them to death. You can vaccinate your rabbit against Calicivirus which is a rabbit Haemorrhagic disease if this disease is a problem around your area.

Coccidiosis & Enteritis

Other diseases to protect your mini Lop from include Coccidiosis; which is a protozoan parasite in the liver or intestine and enteritis; which is a condition which may be fatal to your Mini Lop and is caused by sudden changes in your rabbits diet.

Heat/Cold & Pasteurella Multocida

Rabbits whom are kept permanently outdoors and exposed to extreme heat or cold may suffer fatal circumstances; it is important to make sure your rabbit’s hutch is sheltered, well ventilated and protected from the hot summer heat. Providing your rabbit with a clean, well ventilated hutch or living area can also protect your rabbit from other common infectious respiratory diseases such as Pasteurella multocida which is seen in rabbits whom are kept in draughty or poorly ventilated areas or conditions.

If you discover your rabbit in a state of heat stroke, action must be taken immediately to maximise its chance of survival. Bring the rabbit inside the house to a cool, quiet area. Use a cold, damp cloth to wipe the rabbit’s ears; this helps cool the blood supply. Wet the feet with cool water also. Try not to stress the rabbit further and do not submerge in cold water or it could go into shock. Leave the rabbit to cool down. The shower/ bathroom is excellent for this the rabbit will lay on the rabbit will lay on the tiles. Provide cold fresh water and call your vet if in doubt.

Preventing Heat Stoke

Ensure the hutch is in a cool, shaded area all year round.

Don’t keep rabbits in metal hutches; they are too hot in summer and too cold in winter.

Make sure the hutch design allows adequate ventilation.

Bottles of frozen water placid in the cage are great to help rabbits keep cool, they usually lay against the bottle.

Bring your rabbit inside if the forecast is above 35C whilst you are inside enjoying the air conditioning your rabbit may be suffering! Don’t allow this to happen.

Signs Of Heat Stroke

Stretched out and panting; often with head extended.

Dribbling/salivation; wet nose and mouth area. Front paws may also be wet.

Ears reddening.

Limp, unresponsive and refusal to move.

Delirium, convulsions and death.

Treating Heat Stroke

If you discover your rabbit in a state of heat stroke, action must be taken immediately to maximise its chance of survival. Bring the rabbit inside the house to a cool, quiet area. Use a cold, damp cloth to wipe the rabbit’s ears; this helps cool the blood supply. Wet the feet with cold water also try not to stress the rabbit further and DO NOT submerge in water or it could go into stock. Leave the rabbit to cool down. The shower/bathroom is excellent for this, as the rabbit will lay on the cold tiles. Provide cold fresh water and Call your vet if in doubt.

Nail Care

It is important to check your rabbit nails monthly and possibly clip them if they have not been worm down. Rabbits nails are like cat or dogs and contain blood vessels and nerves, so when clipping your rabbit’s nails it is important to identify where the blood vessels are located so they are not cut, as this will cause bleeding and is painful for the rabbit. I usually allow my rabbits to have regular time on a hard surface like concrete to naturally file down their nails.

Teeth Care

Unlike humans Mini Lops and Dwarf Lops like all rabbits have teeth which constantly grow. This is why it’s very important that your rabbit is given something to chew to keep its teeth the proper size. Branches from fruit trees, non-toxic wooden toys or other non-poisonous wood can be a good means of wearing down teeth. However, some rabbits have misaligned or malocclusion teeth, which means their teeth never wear down. If this occurs teeth can be clipped, however this can be stressful and very uncomfortable for rabbits and can provoke stress induced illnesses.

Feeding

Your new little  Mini Lop kit is precious so remember little bellies need only to be feed little amounts, for the next two weeks small amount of pellets. Oaten or Timothy hay morning and if all gone more at night as rabbits eat more at night times.

As well at night I put one of the following in so they have something during the night, Piece of carrot or apple cut small no seeds or piece of banana and I alternate that each night, morning or night small amounts of greens from the list. Once a week a few drops of Apple Cider Vinegar in the water to keep away flea and make coats shiny.

Also any new food you introduce may case soft poo so if  this dose happen and is still that way after a week then see your vet. After two weeks you can increase the amounts you feed your new Mini Lop kit, if they get runny poo cut back on what you give them to half.

Safe Foods For Your Mini Lop

Fruit, Vegetables and Herbs

Alfalfa Sprouts

Apple (No Seeds)

Artichoke

Asparagus

Banana (And Peel)

Basil

Blueberries

Bok Choy

Broccoli

Brussels Spouts

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celeriac

Celery    

Chard  

Chicory    

Cilantro                      

Cucumber                             

Dill                        

Endive                       

Escarole

Grapefruit Peel

Kale

Kiwi Fruit

Mandarin Peel

 Mint

Parsley

Pears

Pineapple

Plum

Pumpkin Peel

Radicchio

Radish Sprouts

Raspberries

Rocket

Sliver Beet

Spinach

Strawberries

Swede

Tomato

Watercress

Watermelon

Wheat Germ

Wild Plants and Flowers

Chickweed

Clover

Coltsfoot

Dandelion

Lady’s Bedstraw

Milkweed

Milk Thistle

Shepherd’s Purse

Unsafe Foods For Your Mini Lop

Avocado  

Beets                            

Cabbage                

Cereals         

Cos Lettuce    

Corn            

Deadly Nightshade        

Fox Glove        

Garlic                                 

Green Beans                                     

Green Peas

Lily Of The Valley

Muesli

Potatoes

Iceberg Lettuce

Onion

Spring Onion

Rhubarb

That’s right No Cos or Iceberg Lettuce, your rabbit can only have dark coloured Lettuces.

Some of these vegetables are bad for your rabbit as they can cause severe bloating and tummy upsets while some other vegetables are poisonous to rabbits.

If possible, move the hutch around the lawn to provide fresh grass but avoid any grass which has been sprayed with herbicides or freshly mowed grass.

How Much To Feed

5% or one ear of healthy treats such as fruits and veggie eg. Carrots or Pears.

5% or one ear of rabbit mix and pellets.

10% or the size of the head of green veggies eg. Basil or Kale.

80% or the size of the body of Oaten or Timothy Hay.

As your rabbit grows in size so should the amount you feed it.